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To get to this crag, you simply follow Bluff Street all the way out of St. George toward Pine Valley; keep going down the road till you see a sign that says "falling rock" (I think that it is about 3 or 4 miles out of St. George). There is a place to park beside the sign on the right, or you can park in the "parking lot" on the left(follow the dirt road up the left side). If you choose to park on the right side of the road, walk across the street, and follow the dirt road up the slope. once at the top of the slope, there is a trail going off to the left. follow it. the closest cliff is known as "The Shady Side", and the further cliff is known as "The Sunny Side". enjoy!
Sunny Side
(all climbs are listed right to left when looking at the cliff)
Cyclops 5.10a --- a nice fun climb, might seem a little easy for 10, and is kinda short, but still a fun climb.
Black hole Sun 5.8 --- This climb goes along the edge of a crack, but you climb the face, not the crack. An easy climb to get your day started.
Sungrazer 5.8+ --- This climb is kinda tuff to get off the base, but once you are off the ground it is pretty much smooth sailing from there.
Black Dwarf 5.9+ --- WOW!!! This climb is one that makes me think everytime. Ther is a bulge in the middle of the route that kinda throws me off; so for me it is easiest to go just to the right of the bulge. this one also may take a little thinking to get off the ground(actualy you start on some pointed rocks).
Unknown --- who knows??
Reality 5.9 (crack) --- I have not done any cracks, but from what I hear, they are a lot of fun. Go ahead and try it if you have the gear.
Solar Eclipse 5.9 --- OK I have tried this one, in fact, it might have been my first lead. Not a bad climb, give it a try.
Objective Reality 5.9 (crack) --- Again, I have not tried any cracks, so I couldn’t tell you.
Cam-Lock 5.10a --- Kinda fun, but kinda weird. It starts out with you having to climb up a rock, that is under the main part of the climb. The climb is not real long, and too me, it isn’t a very satisfying climb.
Oh My He** 5.10c --- I liked this climb; it starts out fun, and finishes fun. It is a true "Black Rock" type of climb. Small edges, sharp rock, and small footholds. A well deserving climb. I recommend it.
Oh my heck 5.10a --- This climb is on the opposite side of Oh my He** it is also a lot of fun. Starts out a little off the ground on a dirt platform, so you might want to bring something to cover the ground for your rope. Actualy all the climbs at Black Rock need a ground cover of some sort if you wish to keep your rope and gear from getting dirty.
Jesu* wore tevas 5.10c --- I cant exactly remember this climb, but I am sure that is an OK one, since most of Black Rocks has good climbs.
Moses had a stick clip 5.10a --- The name is perfect for this one...you might want to use a stick clip on the first bolt, because it is pretty high up. This climb is an excellent "Black Rocks" climb, and I recomend you try it.
Galactic Canabalism 5.10b --- I dunno.
Dark Matter 5.10c --- I remember that I didin’t realy like this one for one reason or another, but that doesn’t mean that it was a bad climb, it just means that i didn’t like it.
Degenerate matter 5.10c --- This one and the next start off on the same move, this one heads off to the right, and the next heads off to the left. I never could get the first move on them, so I couldn’t tell you wether or not they are any good.
The Keystone Arete 5.10b --- Again I could never get the first move, so I have nothing that I could tell you.
Particulate matter 5.11b --- Now these two climbs are pretty much away from the bunch, and I never tried them. They didn’t seem to have too many people going to them, so maybe they are just no good. ?
Mickey Mantle 5.10b --- read the above climb.
Shady Side(east)
Extinction 5.10a
Polluting the Gene Pool 5.11a
And God Said to Me "Stick it Dude"
Jumping to conclusions 5.12b
Flying off the handle 5.12b
Galactic Acid 5.13b
Flirting with mutants 5.11b
Ginsu 5.11c
Neutrino Drizzle 5.10a
west side
Blank Czech...5.12a/b --- OH BOY; most of the climbs on this side I have not done, so I know almost nothing about them. I have not tried any 12’s or higher.
Escape Velocity 5.12a --- Again; I have not tried any 12’s.
Primeval Atmosphere 5.11b --- Never tried this one. But my friend has, and he seemed to enjoy it. It is A "Black Rocks" climb by all definition, complete with sharp pockets, small ledges, and of course, the rock is black.
Primordial Soup 5.10b --- Good fun climb, lots of small ledges and a few sharp spots, a good climb to do during the summer.
Subdivisions 5.9 --- This climb is started under a hump, and goes to the same anchor as Cromatic Aberation, might as well try it.
Cromatic Aberation 5.9 --- This climb is pretty fun, it has BIG holds, and a lot to choose from, the clips aren’t that far from each other, so it might be a good first lead for someone.
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