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Sespe Gorge is located in the Los Padres National Forest, about 20 miles north of Ojai. It’s a 300 foot tall granite wall right off the road, and has some really excellent crack climbing. Most of the routes are lead routes, with toproping possible on the right side of the wall (depending on how high the water level in the stream is). There are a couple of bolted routes (5.11+) on the right side of the highway.
This critique is my opinion only. If you have comments or suggestions, or know of a really cool climbing spot you’d like to see listed, please mail me
The Good
no crowds (on weekdays, anyhow)
lots of fun routes
easy approach
good parking
The Bad
major rockfalls and ’shedding’ - wear a helmet.
2.5 hour drive from LA
Hwy 33 very windy and steep
stream right at base of wall
toproping can be difficult
mosquitos and those annoying little black flies
lots ’o poison oak
Everything else
Dogs? Sure.
Restrooms? Not likely. Use a bush.
Food availability? No. The closest places are in Ojai. Pack a lunch.
Directions
From LA
101 North to Ventura, take Hwy 33 turnoff. Continue through Ojai, Sespe is about 20 miles north on the left side of the road. Parking is on the side of the road.
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