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(96 votes) Published: Apr 20, 2006 11:04 p.m. In 14 Favorites Lists Viewed 931 times
---Guide to Stealth Marijuana Growing---
Intro
ok many of you will live with your parents or have room mates that don’t like the idea of cultivating marijuana, so here’s how to fix that- The Stealth Closet, these are perfect for when you live with your parents or cranky room mates, the are discreet and smell proof if constructed properly, here is how to go about making one,
the grow box
you will need to either buy or make a cabinet/cupboard/closet, the materials can easily be found. Plywood is great, its relatively cheap and available, no point using expensive wood, but do not, I repeat do not use mdf or anything else absorbent, it will swell and get ruined. Now that your done with this you should paint the interior white, or you could use aluminum foil but that’s less reflective. You have need two fans, I use cpu fans, the bigger the better, make a hole for an exhaust duct near the top and save the fan (more on this later) and one at around the level of the plants, sucking fresh air in make sure the bottom is water proof, you can place a white towel on the bottom for leaks just in case. Some people ( big-time growers) have separate areas for vegetating state and flowering state but I doubt you will need to.
Lighting
Marijuana plants are quite adaptable and when grown indoors they will grow very, very fast up to 3-4 feet in the first month. You will need to use artificial lighting I find the most effective and efficient artificial light for plant growth is fluorescent light. You can easily buy a fluorescent lighting fixture or you could use a fixture from an aquarium. Plants respond primarily to red and blue light, and for healthy growth, a combination of these two colours must be provided. Blue light stimulates leaf growth, produces short, stocky stems, and encourages robust development. Red light is used for stem and root growth, and to promote flowering. The best fluorescent tubes are those that are specifically manufactured to give out light useful to plants, and have a distinct purple hue. Some of these are the Standard Gro-lux, Wide Spectrum Gro-lux, and plant Gro. The best way to hang the lights to to attach two hook screws at the top of the closet and attach chains to the light strips so they can be adjusted. Its best to keep the lights around 5 inches away from the plants. If its too far away the stalks will be all thin and they will grow too tall to support themselves
Soil Preperation
Marijuana grows best in a well-drained sandy soil or loam which is high in nitrogen and potash, at least medium in phosphorous, and which contains little or no clay. The pH should be between slightly acidic (6.5) and slightly alkaline (7.5). If the pH is either too low or too high it will interfere with nutrient uptake. The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 7.0 assigned as neutral
Seeds
You will often come across seeds in bags of weed, since The potency of marijuana is, in part, hereditary its best to use the seeds from the highest quality grass you can get. Ask your friends and dealers to save seeds from there grass for you. Plant only good seeds. Seeds that squish under light pressure or are light coloured will not likely germinate. Pick ones that are hard, and darker coloured are best, place them in a glass of water overnight to get a head start on water absorption. Plant them in the soil ¼ to ½ an inch deep
Transplanting to bigger pots
First, moisten the soil in the pot from which you will take the plant, and let it sit there for a few minutes. Take a spade or a large spoon, fish slice, wok scoop or somesuch, and set it between the transplant and the plant that will be left to grow. Try to leave at least one inch of space from the spoon to the stem. Lever the spoon towards the side of the pot, so as to take up a good wedge of soil. Place the transplant in a prepared hole at the same depth that it was growing at before. Replace the soil in both pots, and moisten slightly to bond the new soil with the original. If carefully done, a wedge of soil can be removed intact, so the root system will not be disturbed and the plant will survive with little or no transplant shock. Do not fertilize a transplant for two weeks, and do not let them wilt.
Flowering
They will start flowering at around 2-3 feet, By changing the light period to less than 13 hours a day, the female responds by flowering profusely in about 2 to 3 weeks. Females grown with a daylength of 16 or more hours may flower, but will do so sparsely, and will not develop large flower clusters. The longer the photoperiod the more pronounced this effect. Before flowering, the leaf growth will be very fast. Once flowering begins, the plant’s energy goes to producing the flowers, and the leaf growth slows. With this in mind, you can manipulate the photoperiod for either a continuously growing vegetative state, or for flowering and a harvest crop.
Smell Removal
At the stage of flowering the female plant starts growing skunky buds, there what you’ve been working towards however the smell is quite strong and distinct. Remember how I told you to attach an duct at the top? Here’s how to construct a smell neutralizer, take a bucket and make a hole in the lid for the fan(see picture) and attach the duct running from the closet to the bucket then just, next you will be filling the bucket to every nine cups of water add 1 cup of odour neutralizer and half a cup of polymer crystals. make some small holes near the top of the bucket above the waterline and your done, the skunky smell is easily replaced by a pleasant aroma, the water will need changing when it wears out, simple process though
Harvesting
When your buds are as big as you want them, you can began harvesting, cut off the buds and small leaves and put them somewhere dry to dry out , wine boxes are good because wood absorbs the moisture. Another method is to hang the plants intact, upside down above a radiator, or in the sun. Some of the resin contained in the stem will ooze onto the leaves. It will take 3 to 10 days to dry completely, depending on the humidity and other factors. The potency of the grass varies in different parts of the plant. Potency increases from the bottom to the top. The small leaves on the branches are more potent than the large leaves on the main stem, and the flowering parts are the most potent of all. The female plant is always considerably more potent than the male. The best part is the flowering top of a female plant, and the worst (which is really not bad at all) is the large leaves on the bottom of the stem of the male.
Hybrids
Ever wondered how they made that killer bud in Amsterdam? Well to begin plant seeds from as many strains as possible. The growth pattern will vary considerably and you can select one male to go to flower and fertilize particular females. Factors for selection might be potency, high yield, rate of growth, number of leaves or just pure aesthetics. All males except the selected one must be removed before their flowers open. Place the selected females around the male plant. Periodically shake the male or fan the air about the male’s flowers. The pollen will disperse in a fine mist over the female flowers. This method should be adequate to produce enough viable seeds for your next crop. After a few generations you will have your own strain, well-suited to its environment and your taste.
Apr 21, 2006 12:14 am - I like it, i knew it all because, iam gunna grow wen it gets hotter outside,Ill give u a 5, it will boost your rating up abit so it might stay.
Apr 27, 2006 6:45 pm - falk5t do you speak english?, "Did YOU have done this ONE TIME?" wtf does that mean, yes ive got the pictures off the internet, because i didn’t take pictures of my plants at every stage they went through, my plants are now harvested however if you feel I must i will take pictures of my setup
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