Auto Maintenance - Brakes (RER)
'My old pads, vs the new pad.' 
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(145 votes)
Published: Dec 12, 2006 10:23 a.m.
In 5 Favorites Lists
Viewed 462 times |
This egg is about performing a basic Front Disc Brake job.
Due to the variations from vehicle, possible omissions or alterations, and the dangerous nature of the services performed, I will accept no liability for the information contained in this egg. I will however claim the credit, because it costed me bills, son.
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How often do I need to replace my brakes?
When they don’t work. Mileage based changes are for retards. Check at every oil change. I don’t, but it’s the right thing to do.
How do I know they are bad?
Well, there are multiple ways of telling...
Brake Fade
When pressing the pedal down to the "braking point", afterwards the pedal travel continues.
Remedy? Air in the brake line. Beyond the scope of this egg.
High pitched Squealing
That means your "wear indicator", or a little clip on the side of the pad is contacting the rotor. This means your pads are heavily worn, and need to be replaced.
Grinding
Usually associable with cheap brake pads. Usually the brake bad breaks off of the backing, causing the rivets to dig into the rotor, leaving for more costly repairs. ALWAYS buy the best pad you can get. Trust me.
Pulsation while braking
This means your rotors are warped. Read the egg to fix it.
Poor stopping distance
Not only can brakes cause this, but a neglected suspension or steering system can cause this too. Usually, on slide calipers the slides become frozen, disabling equal stopping force on the rotor.
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Tools
Usually, a jack, jackstands, beer, wrenches, new pads, and a C-Clamp are required. I don’t drink anymore, so coffee floated my boat.
That coffee cup looks pissed. It just has a "chip on it’s shoulder!"
Getting Started
First, loosen the lug nuts and hub cap. An impact wrench is nice, but a fourway will work just as well. Don’t COMPLETELY remove them yet, though. Just loosen them.
Find your control arm (on Independent Front Suspension) or your axle (on solid axle configurations). Make sure the jack is placed squarely and begin to lift the vehicle.
ALWAYS use jack stands to reinforce the support of the vehicle. Face it, jacks suck. After adjusting the rise on the jack stand, you can safely remove the jack. Repeat on other side. You can now safely remove the tires completely.
As you can see, my truck has whats called "Sliding Caliper". This means, when the brakes are applied, the pads seat to the rotor as needed, not equally as with older "fixed" calipers. Usually this means their are two friction components, the caliper, and the bracket. Each generally have two holddowns (bolts). Remove the caliper bolt (generally the smaller one) first.
Use a screwdrivier or better, a prybar to remove the caliper from the bracket. You will notice the pads stay with the bracket. Remove these and inspect.
Well, besides my brakes catching on fire the other day, you can see that their is a taper to the one pad (indicating frozen slides), and that it is well beyond the acceptable wear limits.
It’s quite obvious that the old pad had between a 1/16" and 1/32" wear on it, whereas the new pad has about 1/2" on it. Obviously time for a change!
A quick rundown of the components of the disc brakes.
Now remove the bracket from the system, you will notice the rotor will just slide right off. Leaving you with this.
Meanwhile
Take the rotors to a machine shop to get them turned. I have super abilities, so I turn them myself. Heres a "brisk" overview of that process.
First, the machinist removes any hard particles and rust from the inner and outer of the hub surface. This allows flush mounting to the spindle.
The rotor is placed on the lathe, and a silencer band is attached to prevent chattering. The exact measurement of the rotor is taken with a "scratch" cut, and proportionally taken down from there, removing lateral run out, warpage, and glazing. All of which cause brake problems.
You can tell the difference in this picture by the difference in the machined side and the unmachined side.
Completed rotors, with an omni directional swirl cut. Ask your machine shop to do one. If they do unidirectional, make sure to remember what side the rotor came off of.
All jacked up!
Use 100 grit sandpaper and remove built up dirt and rust from these spots. This allows smoother operation of the pads.
Reattach rotor and bracket.
Most of the more pricey brakes come with new shims. Use these as seen in the next photo.
These also allow smoother operation of the pads.
On the caliper, you will notice the small steel tubes called "Slides". Remove these from their boots and grease them. These reduce the braking effort and resistive friction when the brakes are applied.
Use a decent grease too, son.
Get...that...dirt off ya fingah.
Now USE THE OLD BRAKE PAD to compress the cylinder. This is VERY important, they usually use ceramic pistons on newer vehicles to keep heat transfer minimal. You WILL crack them. And yea, this is for the manly men.
Using a C-Clamp is much easier. Make sure the other side’s caliper is closed up to prevent forcing out cylinders. Also check the master cylinders level before doing so.
Reattach all components. May require some wiggling. This is the hardest part.
Tighten all lug nuts (usually to 100 ft-lbs) in a criss cross pattern. Like this:
4 lugnuts
13
42
5 Lugnuts
_1
3 4
5 2
6 Lugnuts
1 3
6 5
4 2
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BEFORE starting the vehicle, apply brakes several times to build system pressure back up. Now start it, and drive around!
For automotive Oil Changes, see this egg. Part of this group. |
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 | Dec 12, 2006 10:28 am -
You sure thats beer.. Sure looks like coffee. And I know my coffee.
5*’s because I love you and all those forum hacking things had your name involved and made me laugh. |
 | Dec 12, 2006 10:32 am -
^I saw that and almost pissed myself.
"That was a day that will live in infamy"
*Looks for sniper*
Anywho, yea. That is coffee. Read the text under it son! |
| Dec 12, 2006 10:37 am -
Quote: I don’t drink anymore, so coffee floated my boat.
I DO BOTH!:D Not at the same time though. |
 | De 12, 2006 10:58 am -
I knoe all this shit. So 0*. Nah, 5* :D |
| Dec 12, 2006 11:00 am -
Do you think by posting 5* and me obviously seeing you voted zero makes any sense? |
| Dec 12, 2006 11:06 am -
I VOTED FIVE! And got it upto nearly 4* |
| Dec 12, 2006 11:13 am -
Not you, I was talking to Sponge_Cake_Bertha... |
 | Dec 12, 2006 1:25 pm -
5*, and do you know why my breaks squeel its not because there worn, I just replaced em. |
 | Dec 12, 2006 2:10 pm -
Guess who gets 5* + Favourites? NOT YOU! Just kidding, I enjoyed this egg quite much! |
 | Dec 12, 2006 2:15 pm -
nice 5 dodges are bad ass |
 | Dec 12, 2006 2:22 pm -
5* and since this is so fucking long and obviously took a while to make, i will 5* your profile...also, RER, what theme do you use for firefox? |
 | Dec 12, 2006 5:05 pm -
good |
| Dec 12, 2006 5:07 pm -
That’s not my screenshot. |
 | Dec 12, 2006 6:36 pm -
wow now were all mechanics |
 | Dec 12, 2006 7:22 pm -
Quote: jack and jack stand both fully erect
LOL! 5* as always RER :D |
 | Dec 12, 2006 8:36 pm -
Very detailed step by step with pictures, good grammar so I’m gonna vote 5*’s keep making eggs like this. cause i hate crap eggs. |
 | Dec 13, 2006 4:52 am -
*4 pretty darn good. I use to help my father do this stuff, so i know all about it. |
 | Dec 18, 2006 9:49 pm -
i give you a 2 cause
1. air in the break line would been a simple thing to add in its just simply bleeding the breaks.
2. alot of older cars dont have the wear indicator and some repop pads dont come with them for newer models or older models.
3. pulsation in newer vehicls with abs might not be from a warped rotor abs brakes apply the brakes and then let them off for about 1/6th of a tire rotation then applys them again |
| Dec 25, 2006 6:34 pm -
Quote: 1. air in the break line would been a simple thing to add in its just simply bleeding the breaks.
I could make an entire egg off of bleeding the brakes alone. This is routine maintenance, not what happens if you are a fucking idiot. Also, there is no point. The amount of effort of bleeding the Master Cylinder, each piston, different layouts as well as hydro boost vs. Vacuum driven boosters would make it an in depth egg.
Quote: BEYOND THE SCOPE OF THIS EGG
Quote: 2. alot of older cars dont have the wear indicator and some repop pads dont come with them for newer models or older models.
As explained in the variances between sliding and fixed calipers. And what the fuck is a repop pad? Utter gibberish is what that is. And that truck is a 2002, that doesn’t have wear indicators. Makes you think? Might they increase the metallic element the closer to the backing to produce the squeal? You’d have no fucking idea. You’ve never even driven a car.
Quote: 3. pulsation in newer vehicls with abs might not be from a warped rotor abs brakes apply the brakes and then let them off for about 1/6th of a tire rotation then applys them again
Wow. Imagine that. ABS causing pulsation. So I suppose that must mean you can’t differentiate between the subtle shaking of a brake to control the car when SLAMMING THE FUCKING BRAKES, and the shaking like a tank in the steering wheel and brake pads.
Fuck off idiot. You don’t know shit. |
 | Jan 06, 2008 2:16 pm -
i gave you a 5. only cause your RER |
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