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(83 votes) Published: Jan 01, 2008 4:20 p.m. In 2 Favorites Lists Viewed 338 times
Ive been thinking about this egg for a few months now but havent gotten around to writing it.
Alot of people buy their first car and want to start suping it up to get more power. There are alot of problems with that.
The condition of much of the engine parts is questionable. I have seen motors with 32,000 miles just spontaneously combust and i have seen people put performance parts into a car with 250,000 miles and drive it right up to 400,000 without a problem.
The main thing to understand is that some performance parts reduce stress put onto certain engine parts and others increase stress and wear on engine parts and make them wear out faster.
So before you go out and purchase your Nitrous System, Camshaft Setup, Valve train setup, Stroker kit or turbocharger, you should get out your wrench and your checkbook.
An Intake and Exhaust pose no serious threat to engine internals unless you decide not to use an air filter.
The Fuel system is one of the most neglected parts of the engine for maintenance. Cleaning it out and prepping it for performance is one of the most important things you can do to prevent engine detonation. But before i do that, i clean the rest of motor with SEA FOAM fuel and oil additive. 1 week before ripping apart the motor, i add 8 oz of SEA FOAM into the fuel and 8 oz into the oil. This helps to clean the injectors, cylinder head ports, valve faces, releases carbon deposits and cleans things up in general. The reason for doing this is that it is a stupid idea to add brand new engine parts into a dirty motor and then clean out the motor later and have all that shit deposit onto your fresh parts.
So before tearing it all apart, i always disconnect the battery. I work my way forwards to the fuel rail. I remove the line from the fuel filter to the fuel pressure regulator. I usually then replace the fuel filter as it is now a good time to do so. While it is all ripped apart, i unplug all of the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors, unbolt the fuel rail and disassemble EVERYTHING. Some fuel rails are plastic, some are aluminum. IF it is plastic, throw it away and buy an aluminum after market one. Many engine fires can be traced back to a plastic fuel rail that cracks from engine heat and leaks fuel onto the exhaust manifold(s).
Fuel Injectors are very important to the health of your engine. IF your fuel injectors are clogged or dirty than they will spray fuel out in a stream rather than mist or they wont spray fuel at all. This can make your engine burn a valve or ruin piston rings, burn oxygen sensors, melt out a catalytic converter or even worse. Some fuel injectors dont become dirty for 200,000 miles, some will clog up in 50,000. But either way, if you question the condition of them and you plan to supe up your car, clean them up. Remove them from the injector cups in the intake manifold and pull them out of the fuel rail. You should then remove the rubber O-rings at the inlet and outlet of them. You will order a new set of O-rings (usually 25 cents each). While the injectors are out, Cut a 2L bottle in half and pour acetone or nail polish remover into it so that the level is 1 inch high. Let your injector outlets soak in the acetone for 1-3 days. I let them soak for a week. I then usually dunk the other side but it isn’t AS necessary.
Remove the injector Cups (inserts) in the intake manifold and clean up the whole insert area with a toothbrush and acetone. You should spray it down with brake cleaner over and over seeing as dirt, oil and leaked fuel have a tendency of depositing in there and making vacuum leaks. If an O-ring is cracked or broken than air will leak into the engine through the injector cup or fuel rail and make the engine run lean. This can make idling and warmup issues, throttle response issues and overall power problems. Oxygen sensors will say that the engine is running lean and the catalytic converter will burn out faster. Replacing these parts is a part of maintenance at 60-100,000 miles and is usually neglected until the engine almost self-destructs.
Using a Billet Aluminum fuel rail will decrease the temperature of the fuel, allow more fuel flow and will reduce the chances of the fuel rail cracking and leaking. It also makes a better gasket seal with the O-ring.
After your fuel injectors have soaked, you can usually take them to a shop to have the purge tested and see if it makes the correct mist. IF fuel sprays out of it like a super soaker than they should be replaced. If they leak fuel than they should be replaced. A leaking injector can sometimes be mistaken for leaking valve seals because the exhaust will make smoke during a cold start when it has been sitting for a long time. A leaking injector will also make lower fuel pressure during startup and the engine may not start right up if the ignition key is just inserted and cranked. The reason for this is because the fuel pump needs to be turned on before the engine attempts to start. If there is no left-over fuel pressure from when the car was shut off than a leak is imminent.
Once everything is ready to be pieced back together, install new injector O-rings and install new injector cups. Some white lithium grease helps to make it all slide together and get a good first seal. Bolt the old fuel pressure regulator onto the new fuel rail after briefly blasting it out with some brake cleaner. A stainless braided fuel line is good if the fuel rail and fuel lines are in a high-heat area or if they are near many moving parts.
Once everything is bolted back together and electrical grease is put onto the fuel injector terminals and the electrical connectors are replaced, double check everything. Make sure new hardware has been used and that the fuel filter is in place correctly. Then you should change the oil and filter, connect the battery terminal and wire together and crank the car key into the ON position. NOT the start position. Hold it there for 3-5 seconds to let the fuel pressure build up, then start the car. You will notice that it will hold a better idle and throttle response will be alot better. Your fuel economy will be better and your fuel system will be ready for intermediate upgrades. Once huge turbos are bolted on and the engine is really reconfigured, a whole different fuel system is recommended.
Doing this should prepare the fuel system for a 30-40% increase over stock power. My friend blew up the motor in his Jetta because he bolted $7,000 worth of performance engine parts onto the motor but used the old fuel system. The supercharger was pushing 22 psi of boost and ended up blowing air out of a blown injector O-ring. One cylinder ran Lean and got tons of air while the other 3 ran super rich and didnt have the same power output. The engine ended up advancing the ignition timing so far that it blew the cylinder head right off.
Jan 01, 2008 4:45 pm - yeah, i know im workin on it. Im going nuts, im stuck in a wheelchair, it is like 20 degrees out and i need to swap a different motor into one of my cars by february. I cant go outside to take pictures of certain things for my eggs and i cant fuckin DRIVE!!!!!!!!
Jan 01, 2008 7:00 pm - Im stuck in a wheelchair because i made the mistake of letting a woman drive my car. She whipped it around a corner and slammed on the brakes. The car slid out and the passenger’s side of the car slammed into a brick wall at 65-70 mph. the engine came through the firewall and dashboard. She got knocked out and i was trying to release my seatbelt but it wouldnt come loose. The exhaust manifold caught some dashboard insulation on fire and then fuel sprayed out of the fuel rail and caught the car on fire. My leg was roasting and the skin was melting off and i was just trying to get the fuck out of the car. A bystander pulled her out of the car and she just had a concussion from the steering wheel and a few scrapes. I havent been able to make an egg in a few months.
Ja 02, 2008 4:32 pm - No it isnt motorized, IM NOT 76 YEARS OLD! But, i did discover something crazy. Having sex with your girlfriend in a wheelchair is AMAZING! Next time you break your leg, park the wheelchair near the tub in the bathroom and take your feet off of the foot pads. Have your GF stand on the foot pads and hold onto the shower curtain pole. Then while she sorta hangs there, have her mount and continue to hold on, then you just move the wheel back and forth by hand. DAMN!
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