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(58 votes) Published: Jun 30, 2008 9:16 a.m. Viewed 389 times
ok in this very simle egg i m goig to tell you how to make your pellets fly further and with more momentum and acuracy.
materials:
1: hot plate or other heat source
2: pellets
3: lead (fishing sinkers pellets are sometimes lead or it can be bougt at many places
4: container (for molten lead) a spoon would work pretty much anything
5: bluetac or clay (clay is better
6: metal tray
now as you can see in this picture ( http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1350/1472788136_5b1b419e8a_o.jpg ) pellets are hollow (or atleast most) and this makes them lighter so when they hit their target they have less momentum however they speed up in the barrel faster so this is for high power air guns mainly along with this the heavier they are the less affected by the wind they are as anybody who know the difference between plastic and metal bbs knows
step 1: set up the hot plate or heating device
step 2: but lead into your heating container
step 3: get a pellet and a bit of your bluetac or clay and stick a bit of it to the head of the pellet now stick this to the bottom of the tray and repeat for as many pellets as you want but dont put them less than an inch apart now fill your tray with water but only up to the point before water goes into the holow bit of the pellet now you can either freeze or go i would advise freezing them
step 4: heat up your lead
step 5: pour your lead into the pellet and wait to cool hopefully your pellet wont melt that’s why its better to freeze them and the water around them
your done now because of their added weight they should go further and be more acurate
adding MORE weight to ANY projectile will NOT make it go further nor give more momentum with the same velocity of a lesser weighted projectile.
unless you are shooting ammunition approaching the speed of sound (anything around 1000-12000fps) then more weight is not going to give you any performance boost and certaintly does not need macguyver ups. they sell heavy weight pellets which work perfect for all high powered airsoft guns.
as for the hollow part at the back. its called drag and aerodynamics. that is there to stablize the projectile in flight, think a shuttlecock. stuff that full of something and see how well you can play with it.
if you want more power use a highpowered air gun along with a heavy weight (for stability in flight) or low powered airgun with a steel ball tip or simply buy the correct ammunition like wadcutters, hollowpoints with a drop of mercury covered by parrafin make a very leathal projectile. peace
Teh1337 added in some sort of fucked up porn and completly flooded this egg making it damn impossible to view the content or do much of anything. the image is from goatse.cz block ALL images from that site to see the thread. i vote for banishment for teh1337 if he doesnt have one damn good reason for this bullshit.. not fuckin cool nigger!
Jul 01, 2008 10:52 am - No way would i put some thing home made like this into the barrel of my airgun! If this improves performance surely this is how they would manufacture the pellets in the first place?
Jul 01, 2008 11:32 am - hey i saw what you commented on my egg i did say it was for high powered airguns mainly and i never said they would go the same speed but they are much better some people fire the pellets backwars as a sort of extreme hollowpoint and from what i have read they havent reported any less acuracy or the pellet trying to flip round in flight now YOU picture a shuttlecock or bird (the thing in badmington) if you drop it spongy part down it will stay that way if you then fill the back part up with foam (weighing the same as the tip like in my egg and then drop it it will be exacly the same because its the shape the back part causing more drag than the front where the wieght is in the pellet has some effect but aslong as the front is the same or more weighted than the rest it will be fine and i havent even mentioned that the back part could still be heavier because as it gets bigger towards the back or the pellet it further helps to ensure the pellet stays straight
the speed of sound btw is 1116.437007874 fps
the pellet will go slower however it will have more momentum so when it hits its target it will tend to continue going and take more time to slow down the higher the power airgun you have the less aparent the change in speed becomes and the more aparent the increase in acuracy and range becomes because the pellet has the same surface area as before but double the weight or so it will only be affected about half as much and as i said before the pellets will take longer to slow down because they are heavier and have more momentum but the pellet is the same shape as i said before the change in speed becomes more and more aparent the weaker your airgun is thats why i said they were for high power ones. do i need to repeat myself again?
Jul 02, 2008 9:38 am - to the people who said they wouldent put this home made stuff in their gun as the exterior shape isent affected it would make no difference than firing a normal pellet as far as your barrel is concerned and firesale:
#3245. A favorite for field target shooters. As one of the world’s heaviest pellets the Kodiak has a tremendous amount of inertia that delivers super impact on those hard to knock down targets. The great weight also provides good wind resistance and is more efficient in the higher powered airguns and the pre-charged pneumatics such as the Beeman Mako air rifle. The head is very conical in shape, like a rounded point, providing outstanding aerodynamics. Deviation: 0.8%, Caliber: 0.178, Skirt length: 0.187, Overall length: 0.270
they say the same as me more efiecent in high power air rifles and i covered all the rest in a less casual way and explained why i dont know why you lot rated down this hasent been posted before or anything as far as i know
Jul 06, 2008 1:30 pm - As long as your barrel is rifled, making heavier projectiles will maintain the trajectory for a longer distance and give it more ’punch’.
However, your method of adding weight is flawed. The rib of the pellet will deform even if you freeze it.
The best way to do this is to make a cast of a pellet out of heat resistant material and pour the entire pellet.
Jul 07, 2008 4:36 pm - damn it i thought that might happen it depends on how thick your pellet is what would you make the cast in?
and the barrel doesent need rifleing i dont see how you thought of that i dont see any logic and what guns dont have rifled barresl?
Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm - oh i get it now the rilfed barrel thing was incase the pellets were infact unbalanced oh good thinking
but as these are more and more effective in higher and hgiher powerd guns anybody with any sense would use a medium to high powered gun and as far as i know they are rifled arent they?
Jul 08, 2008 9:31 pm - Well... You’d have to look around for something that can withstand the melting temperature of lead (621.5°F)...
Plas er of Paris will work, but you have to do it right. I would place the pellets on a tray, carefully fill the tray until the plaster is right up to the lip of the pellets, and let the plaster set. Once it solidifies, you MUST bake it to drive out all moisture. If you don’t, the moisture will instantly boil on contact with the molten lead and the casting will violently fly apart, spraying molten lead droplets in all directions. I’d bake it at 350°F for a half-hour, then let it cool for a bit in the oven. While it’s still warm (about 100-125°F), pour the molten lead into the cavity at the back of the pellet, just up to the lip.
Be sure any utensils, pots and pans that are used with lead are never used for food again. Lead=poison, and you can’t clean it.
Jul 11, 2008 4:43 pm - thanks for the advice lead as far as i know is pretty soft anyway i dont think you would have to melt it just heat it up a bit i saw on an episode of csi that this guy made his own shotgun pellets he dident bother heating them up thanks for the advice maybe you could get a similar efect if you just superglued a fishing sinker into the back of the pellet
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