'Keep the remote control pendant separate from your other keys, so you can stall your car if someone steals it. The key in this picture goes to a locking fuel cap.'

View all 4 photos

VIEW	VIEW	VIEW

H-Dogg DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME : Rotteneggs.com text files and message bases are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT undertake any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site.We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site. (49 votes) Published: Jan 30, 2005 10:51 a.m. In 3 Favorites Lists Viewed 4017 times A remote control killswitch is handy. It makes your car harder to steal, qualifies you for a discount on your insurance, and has some prank uses. You will need to buy a RF remote control switch. Though you don’t need it, it’s good to buy a keyed switch to use as a manual backup, in case your remote control is lost or broken. My example is specfic to Fords, or any other car with an inertia fuel cutoff switch. See, Ford saw fit to put a switch (B), which is normally closed, or on, on the computer (A). In a collision, the switch opens, or turns off. The computer turns off the fuel pump. This is to prevent the pump from adding fuel to the fire if the gas line has ruptured. After you have your equpiment, find the computer (A) and the inertia switch (B). Cut one of the two leads between them. Splice the lines to your manual keyed backup switch (C) and your RF remote control switch (D) in parallel. This way, the car will start and run when either the manual swtch or the remote control switch is activated. Be sure to put the leads in the remote control switch in the normally open terminals. By the way, if your car has no inertia switch, splice the switch into the primary lead on the ignition coil. Finally, your RF remote control switch (D) needs 12 volts for its own use. Connect the hot lead to your car’s cigarette lighter, or directly to the positive battery terminal. Open up your steering column, and find the lead that comes out of the ignition lock. This is there so the car can make that annoying chiming sound when you leave the key in the ignition lock. Splice the ground lead from the RF remote control switch (D) into that. Once everything is installed, make sure the backup switch (C) is off, or open. Insert the car’s key in the ignition, but do not attempt to start it. Now, there is power running to the RF remote control switch (D). Press the button on the remote control pendant. You’ll probably hear a clicking noise from the relay. Now, the circuit between the inertia switch and the computer is complete, so you can start the car. Keep the remote control pendant separate from the car keys, so if someone tries to steal your car, press the button on the remote control again, and the engine will sputter out within 5 seconds at idle speed, and faster under load. When you remove the key from the ignition lock, you’ll hear the relay tick again. The remote control switch has reset itself to open. Now, nobody can start the car without having both the key and the remote control. Now for the fun part. Let someone else drive; I left my car with a valet parking attendant once. A crowd of people waited in the garage for the attendant to retrieve their cars. The attendant had my key, but not my remote control. He attempted to start the car, but without fuel, it just cranked and cranked. I listened for him to pump the accelerator, then I hit the button on the remote control. The fuel was restored, and the car started. I waited for him to put the car into gear, then turned it off. He cranked it some more, and I turned it on again. Then, he gunned the accelerator a bit, to try and coax the old engine to keep running. I turned it off and on a couple more times. What a hunk of shit, he must have thought, as he got out of the car and I drove away. Here’s a suitable RF switch. Buy the assembled version, unless you want the hassle of soldering it together. You’ll also need an enclosure of some sort.
Add Egg To Watchlist