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(34 votes) Published: Oct 27, 2001 12:00 a.m. In 1 Favorites Lists Viewed 3768 times
Finding the right parts: Unscrew and remove all the plastic casing surrounding the keyhole and below the steering wheel. Excellent. Breaking the steering lock: You can now see a short metal tube that ends at the keyhole, branching out from the steering column towards the drivers window. This is the steering lock; it’s bolted on and you ain’t going nowhere until it’s broken. Slide a strong, hollow metal tube, about 1.5 inches in diameter and 18 inches long (scaffolding may as well have been designed for this) over the steering lock. Yank the end of the tubing downwards several times - hard. The brittle ’Dye Cast’ steering lock metal will eventually snap and fall away, leaving the steering wheel and column free to turn. The wires: You’re now looking at about six coloured wires anchored at one end to the ignition switch and at the other to the keyhole, then strip away a bit of plastic at the ends so bare wire is exposed. You want three particular wires (called ’feeds’): the battery, ignition and starter feeds. To find the battery and ignition feeds, touch the exposed end of each wire to the end of every other one. You’ve got the right pair when the dashboard ignition lights flash. Clip those two end together. Getting it started: To find the starter feed, touch the exposed end of each remaining wire to the join of the battery and ignition feeds. you know you’ve struck gold when the engine turns over as all three meet. WARNING: Don’t hold the starter feed to the other two wires for more than a second or two - you’ll burn out the starter motor. As soon as it’s up and running, let the starter feed drop away from the battery ignition join. And don’t let it touch any of the other wires while the engine’s running. When you’ve quite finished: To turn off the engine, disconnect the ignition and battery feeds. Keep them seperate when the car’s parked to avoid a flat battery.
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